Sitia - Crete 

The place - Sitia

"La Sitia - Of man and nature, the two live in a sublime land, cut off from the crazy ways of busy enterprise" - T.P.
The word "friendly", applies to the people of Crete and it fits perfectly when considering the nature of the people you meet in the Sitia region. We would elect the area "ideal for exploration".
One of the least "touristy" parts of Crete, Sitia as a town, was built up in Venetian times, destroyed and later rebuilt by the Turks, with just a few signs of this history remaining. The region however, still provides numerous clues and monuments to the area's early history.
Today, its long sandy beach (equipped by this caring town with showers) offers the pleasures of sand, sea, swimming and all the windsurfing opportunities in the world.
Sitia is very much a living town, which happens to have tourism, rather than the other way around.

The uncrowded region of Sitia is home to monasteries (notably Toplou), archaeological sites, palm-forested beaches, sparkling bays and fascinating treks across the mountains. To name a few, the surrounding villages of Zou, Ziros, Handras - alive with the activities of today - abandoned Ethia and the surroundings of Karydi, hold much of interest in their ancient buildings and archaeological finds.
Getting to this more isolated region (named Lassithi from "La Sitia" ) takes you on a journey through magnificent countryside, generously supplied with dramatic gorges, intriguing villages hanging onto inland peninsulas or steep hillsides, along a "California-highway-one-like" road.
Birthplace of Vitsentzos Kornaros, author of the "Erotokritos", Sitia has an atmosphere that suggests if there were an artist's colony, this should be it.

With a new runway completed, direct, international flights and an increase in frequency of service to Athens may one day become a reality. We hope that the easier access to Sitia and Lassithi will be met with appealing and thoughtful development; there will most certainly be new tourist facilities. One day...
 

How to get there - Sitia

From Agios Nikolaos (driving time 60-90 minutes) the National road clings to the coast most of the way (a dramatic set of winding turns and sweeping, emotion-stirring, views) . The drive is magnificent and there are many places to see en route. A detour to Mochlos is recommended, take the left turn to Mochlos, at 5.5km past the village of Kavousi. You will find tavernas at the waters edge in the village (5km down the road) and the tiny island with its visible archaeological site opposite. Recommended: Taverna Bogazi (tel: 28430-94200, Price category D) the owners used to run the Taverna Sta Limenaria, but Bogazi in a far better location.
After this, drive out in the other direction joining the National road just 2km before Tourloti - where a visit to the Kafeneio on the western side of the village by the mini market is worth while for the views of the coastal mountains, Sfaka village and distant Mochlos below.

If driving from Heraklion (total drive time 2.5 to 3 hours to Sitia) consider stopping at Neapoli. It's hardly a detour off your route and about twenty minutes before you arrive at, or pass, Agios Nikolaos (this is also one of the ways to get to the popular Lassithi Plateau). Cradled amongst lush green surrounding hills, it has a beautiful open and spacious central square with large church, many cafes and Kafeneia and a park. (Neapoli & Agios Nikolaos will have feature sections devoted to them soon. The route from Agios Nikolaos to Sitia will be featured in our Great Drives of Crete section).
There is a regular bus service from Heraklion and Agios Nikolaos. Bus schedules.
Flights: For the flights from Athens and other Greek cities to Sitia see Flight Schedules.
By ferry to/from Milos and Pireas (Athens). There is a ferry from Agios Nikolaos which calls in at Sitia on its way to Rhodes (Rodos) - See Ferry schedules.
 

Where to stay - Sitia

Sitia Bay Hotel, the newest and best of Sitia hotels. First opened in 2005, this is the hotel Sitia longed for: a smart, quality small hotel. On the sea front*, few steps from the beach, has 19 well-finished studios/apartments with kitchen, all facing the sea. Sizeable swimming pool, pleasant courtyard with flowers. Open April to October.

Flisvos, Itanos and Apollon hotels are open year round (for hotels in winter see also our Crete in winter feature). Flisvos is a standard hotel in good condition - simple, modern and clean with sea front and some rear garden, air-conditioned rooms and suites (total 19) with TV, balconies. Sea front*.
Itanos is mid-range and modern with a dining room, roof terrace, TV lounge, bar areas, cafe/taverna on the sea front (70 sound-proof rooms facing sea, mountain and side views). Individual air conditioning, excellent bathrooms, balconies, TV. Rooms equipped for disabled people are available. Sea front*
* = Hotels on the sea front, separated from the beach by the Sitia-Toplou/Vai road - which is narrow and easy to get across.
Hotel Apollon, a couple of blocks up from the square which Itanos is on, provides good standard rooms with air conditioning, TV and fridge. It has a bar and dining room and is home to some package tour visitors. Also open for the whole year.
In the summer months the big hotel is the Sitia Beach (160 rooms). It's at the eastern edge of the town on the sea front* with 2 swimming pools, tennis courts, restaurant and bars. Rooms are generally booked by package tour operators. A somewhat faded building in need of updating. (see simple map)

Beyond Sitia:

On the extensive sand & shingle Kouremenos beach (far north-east coast), Olga Beach Apartments is a great choice if you want to spend lots of time in/by the sea, in a quiet location, from where you can explore east Crete. Open April to October.

Contact details:
~Sitia Bay Hotel: price category: H2/H1+. Review, photos, rates & reservations with CreteTravel.com
~Sitia Beach Hotel: tel: 28430-28821, price category: H2/H1.
~Flisvos Hotel: tel: 28430-22422 / 27135, price category: H4.
~Itanos Hotel: tel: 28430-22900 / 22146, price category: H3.
~Hotel Apollon: tel: 28430-22733 / 28155, price category H4/H3.
~Olga Beach Apartments (Kouremenos beach), price category: H2. Review, photos, rates & reservations with CreteTravel.com
(Phones: see Calling Crete)

What to see/do - Sitia

Windsurfing, sunbathing and swimming on Sitia's clean, sandy 2 km beach.
See the Venetian fortress "Kazarma" which overlooks Sitia and plays host to several concerts and other performance events, especially during the July and August arts festival of Kornaria (concerts, theatre, events, readings and more).
Sitia is very relaxing to walk in, and one walk might include the Archaeological Museum, which displays finds from the most significant minoan Palace of Zakros and several other local sites.

Drive to the thick palm tree-lined beach at Vai - early morning is a wonderful time to be there and if lucky, have the beach to yourself.
On the same route you must visit the Toplou Monastery, originally built in the15th century, rebuilt after earthquake and Turkish destruction. See its icon collection and paintings illustrating its history as a centre of the many battles fought to hold off invading forces, the old windmill and the views from one of the last fortressed monasteries in Crete. A cafe (open sometimes!) , small museum and gift area are housed within its walls.

Visit the caves of Peristera, Megalo Katofygi, Pelekita and Oxo Latsidi - the last two are both over 300 metres long.

Enjoy the flora. Of the more than 300 endemic plant species in Crete most can be found in the Sitia region - even the untrained eye will revel at the variety.
The villages of Achladia, Agios Stefanos, Zakros; the islands scattered off the coast including the Dionisades (day trips from Sitia); visit the minoan Palace of Zakros in Kato Zakros and lunch at one of the tavernas in this quietest, of island beach settlements. Xerokambos, a visit includes impressive panoramas and multiple stopping points of interest  on the way, has two of the best beaches money can buy (no, they're not for sale). A stop at one of the tavernas for lunch. But see our feature on Xerokambos, you'll probably want to stay.

The gorges of Kato Zakros "Valley of the Dead", so-named after the numbers of Minoan burial sites discovered in the caves of this gorge ( part of the E4 path - has sign-posts and drinking fountains); the wilder Orino, famed for red butterflies, which is a long (5-7 hour) walk from Orino village to Koutsouras.
For those seeking shorter walks Karoumes and Bebonas (to name a few) are two we have been told of - usually enquiries at the villages, or nearby villages will provide useful directions and tips. In Sitia the Office of Rural Tourism at 5 Antheon Street is most helpful (tel: 28430-23590).

And, of course, you may want to visit Agios Nikolaos, another pleasant town in east Crete.

Where to eat & drink - Sitia

A drink or frappe coffee perhaps, at Club Cafe Aroma (formerly Rodon), towards the ferry landing, 172 Kornarou, tel: 28430-25521 to check when it is open. It's a comfortable and interesting old building, with a long waterside terrace - ducks and a pelican play and catch food below, you have a view of Sitia and the place is friendly and the music refreshingly good. Daytimes are most enjoyable, it's also one of the buzzing places to go at night. Natasha and Stelios run a fine bar/cafe - ask them about the new stone-built taverna they are opening in February or March, sounds like it's going to be good (tell them Roger at CreteTravel.com sent you!).
The cafe/club scene at several bar/cafes between Zorba's restaurant and the ferry landing area, deliver the current club music menu - but principally serve just coffees and drinks.
Zorba's is a good all round taverna and the restaurants on the sea front share similar offerings - all price category D to C - depending on how ambitious you are if you order fish (large price range for different varieties!).
For a quick snack the Gyros at Kornarou (a street behind Dodoni , which itself is Platia Iroon - opposite Itanos Hotel) are good.
Most restaurants are likely to use locally grown or reared ingredients, follow the local patronage - which in Sitia includes sea front tavernas, and you'll eat well and receive good value.

Special Comments - Sitia

"The golden sands embraced the circling sea and all the world thrilled to a melody" (Vitsentzos Kornaros).
"Sitia suits all" is accurate. But, the highlights are in the exploration of the region. Whether hiking, day walking, motor-cycling or driving you owe it to yourself to cross the mountains slowly via the small aged villages, to descend rocky footpaths or spiraling roads to gem-sparkling seas, to examine and make notes at archaeological finds - to observe and enjoy a place full of natural and man-made hospitality. A pleasing and well cared-for town.
Oh a last minute tip: try the fascinating Rizari - a shop selling the sort of "accessory" items that could turn any house, into a unique "home". Many things to see as well as original woven goods, hand died using local plant dies - at 31 Kapetan Sifi (tel: 28430-24341).
 

Photo album - Sitia

To see more of Sitia, click here to go to its photo album.
 

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Simple map - Sitia

We have drawn  a simple map of Sitia, to give a better idea of where things are. See Sitia simple map.