Rethymno (Rethimno/Rethimnon) - Crete

The place - Rethymno

Rethymno combines rarely united features: the old town's charm and history, with proximity to a long sandy beach.
You can enjoy arriving by ferry and be "right there" close to the centre of the Old Town, just a 5 minute walk away (newly built harbours on many Greek islands are now far from the center, removing the romance of arriving IN the place you are visiting!).

There are two sides to Rethymno offering two styles of visit: the endless big beach hotel strip that stretches from the east end of Rethymno, lapping up the coastal "villages" of Perivolia, Platanias, Adelianos Kambos, Pigianos Kambos, Sfakaki, Stavromenos and Skaleta - and - the Rethymno that allows you the character of the old town with its mix of architecture and history, cultural influences and styles ranging from Venetian to Ottoman empire. We present the second and more romantic choice - leaving the all-inclusive beach and booze tours to others.
Before leaving the beach, we should mention that there are other visitors - the turtles. Turtles are regular visitors along the beaches of Rethymno and return between June and August to lay their eggs each year.
 

The Venetian harbour...
Rethymno’s harbour area is a fine place for a coffee at one of the cafes and perhaps you will chance to eat there, just for the atmosphere. Look out from the harbour edge at the state of the buildings and seeing the abuse of this historic area you may be disappointed - perhaps you should suggest a renovation or two! But not to worry, there is much else to see and enjoy, no shortage of other places of great character to stroll, stop in cafes, eat and generally enjoy the enormous amount Rethymno offers you.

The Fortress dominates the city and makes Rethymno very photogenic, its pedestrian streets below, strewn with charming old buildings. Venetian influences abound and the minarets and domed mosques remind of the Turkish influence long gone.
Numerous shops for souvenirs (with many local products now available), trendy fashion or imaginative jewellery...the old and the modern combine to make a colourful and buzzing town.

Venturing outside the town, some days you will visit dramatic gorges, monasteries, time-trodden villages with ancient churches, the south coast Libyan sea, spectacular mountains of Psiloritis and the Lefka Ori (White Mountains).

For Rethymno provides you with an advantageous pivotal point on the island, allowing you to range across the centre of Crete and have enough to discover for weeks!
 

How to get there - Rethymno

Rethymno's convenient aspect is that it is nearly equidistant from both main airports, Chania and Heraklion - meaning many more flight options (you can fly into either airport, whichever suits you). See flight information.
Ferries sail into Rethymno from Athens port (Pireas) daily. The ferries are overnight sailings, take a cabin for comfortable travel. See ferry schedules.

By car, we strongly recommend approaching Rethymno along the coast taking the western-most exit from the New National Road at Atsipopoulo/Rethymno - this gets you directly to the port and the old town.
There are frequent buses connecting Rethymno with other towns and villages. See bus schedules.

Parking in town:
At the port (limited), near the marina at the ferry landing (large). See on our Rethymno map.
The old town streets are kept for pedestrians only and cars will always need to be parked away from your hotel if you stay within the area.
 

Where to stay - Rethymno

In the heart of the old town:
The tasteful, smart and traditional building of Palazzino di Corina or the simpler authenticity of Veneto Hotel.
Palazzino di Corina is 1 minute from the harbour and about 7 minutes walk to the beach. Veneto is about 5-10 minutes to the harbour and 10–15 minutes walk to the beach.
For the swish and fancy - a genuine taste of old stone and Venetian luxury brought up to date the brand new Avli Suites are just the thing. Above Avli Restaurant or their shop (both mentioned below).

The doll's house-like Vetera Suites is charm itself, in one of the oldest buildings in Rethymno, next to the big church and on the edge of the Old Town - unique and special.

Fortezza hotel, contemporary hotel at the beginning of the old town, near the fortress. Mythos Suites, just in from the old town - pleasant mix of old and new. Palazzo Rimondi, in the old town and has pleasing rooms and suites and garden area.
 

The beach area that is less well known, is the one going out to the west, as if exiting Rethymno. It's on the way to "Koumbes" and in the direction of Chania, just a few minutes sees two good suggestions: Delfini Hotel (old and traditional rooms on the beach - a rare combination) and Petradi Beach (hotel with pool and beach just in front of you). This is probably further than most will want to walk to the old town but still puts it within easy reach.
We would want to be sure of a sea view, beach front room in either hotel, both for vistas and quiet.

If you do want beach and sand, but within a more or less walkable range of the “real Rethymno” and its centre and old town…this may put you in need of a larger hotel (on the main beach the hotels are mostly big). One of the closest that has a good appearance and standard (though it is huge and overwhelmingly package-tour-inspired) is the Porto Rethymno.
Earlier – closer still to the old town – and easily found by its position above Goody's fast food restaurant and a Chinese and a Mexican restaurant on the seafront is Hotel Kyma.
Both these are opposite decent looking stretches of beach with the one at Porto Rethymno the more lush, sandy and well kempt.
Further along the beach and seafront is the Steris Beach hotel, here things are a little quieter. It is an apartment hotel.
Further again (still going east), you are now some way and well over a 30 minute walk from the old town - things are calmer still, fewer cafes and restaurants now.
Leoniki Residence. Newer and of smaller proportions.
The Pearl Beach is also smaller, but has only a few truly beach-front rooms.
 

Rethymno hotels in Old Town:

~Fortezza hotel: Price category: H3/H3+. Tel. 28310-55551.
~Mythos Suites: Price category: H2/H1+. Tel. 28310-53917.
~Palazzo Rimondi: Price category: H1/H1+. Tel. 28310-51289.

Review, photos, rates & reservations with CreteTravel.com:

~Avli Luxury Suites: Price category: H1+.

~Vetera Suites: Price category: H1.

~Palazzino di Corina: Price category: H1/H1+.

~Veneto: Price category: H1.

Rethymno beach hotels:

~Porto Rethymno. Price category: H2/H1+. Tel. 28310-50432, 28310-51980.
~Hotel Kyma. Price category: H3. Tel. 28310-55503.
~Steris Beach hotel. Price category: H4/H3+. Tel. 28310-28303.
~Leoniki Residence. Price category: H2/H1. Tel. 28310-29232.
~Pearl Beach. Price category: H3/H2. Tel. 28310-51513.

Rethymno West beach (towards Koumbes):

~Delfini hotel. Price category: H3/H1. Tel. 28310-35245. And next door is:
~Petradi Beach. Price category: H3/H2. Tel. 28310-35340.

(Phones: see Calling Crete).
 

Our suggested hotels outside Rethymno and within easy access:

Review, photos, rates & reservations with CreteTravel.com:

~Monastiriako: Traditional suites, 9 km from Rethymno. Price category: H2/H1.
~Villa Avra: stone-built 4-bedroom villa near Gerogioupoli, 20 km from Rethymno. Price category: H1+.
~Abelos Villa: 2 stone-built houses sharing a large pool, in rural Roustika village, 18 km from Rethymno. Price category: H1/H1+.

~Villa Lucia: 5-bedroom house with pool, close to village & sandy beach. Price category: H0.
~Villa Limeri: unusual rural "retreat house", spectacular mountain views. Price category: H1+/H0.
~Kastellos Village: old house in small village with atmosphere, 18 km from Rethymno. Price category: H2/H1.
~Villa Kynthia: small inn in Panormos, 22 km from Rethymno. Price category: H1/H1+.

Many of the hotels mentioned are open year round (see Crete in winter feature). 
 

What to see/do - Rethymno

Explore the waterfront and streets just behind. Walk along the harbour wall to the Venetian lighthouse.
The Fortezza (fortress) was built by the Venetians (1573) to protect the city. Not only are walls, church and the remains of its buildings of interest, the views from it to the town are a great way to start planning your tour of the town. There are also sweeping sea views. Open daily. Admission: 3.10 Euros.
Archaeological museum at the entrance to the fortress. Open daily 08.30–15.00. Closed Mondays. Admission: 3.00 Euros. Tel: 28310-28482. Very small but with some interesting (and big!) exhibits from Neolithic to Roman times. Includes Archaic and early Christian finds from Eleftherna and Minoan finds from Armeni and Monastiraki sites. A wonderful clay larnax is visible as you enter. Also don't miss the Minoan goddess figurine.
The Venetian Loggia, dating back to the 16th century. Used as the archaeological museum's shop. (Books, models, jigsaw puzzles and cards). Open Monday to Friday 08.00-15.00.
This is a good landmark as a meeting/rendezvous place. There is a travel agent opposite with a Piraeus Bank cash machine and on the opposite corner a shop with maps, guidebooks in several languages, foreign press rack and magazines.
 

Folklore & history museum on Vernardou 30. Open Monday to Friday 09.30-14.30. Closed Saturday and Sunday. Admission: 3.00 Euros (half price seniors and students). Tel. 28310-23398. Housed in a restored Venetian building with an interior courtyard. Eight halls with collections that include textile and basket weaving, embroidery & lace, costumes, ceramics, historic photographs and maps, weapons and coins. Over 5.000 items dating from the 17th to the 20th century are displayed.
Next door is a bakery where the baker keeps his ancient door open and is happy to show how he makes the traditional "fyllo" pastry leaves.
 

The main minaret (Neratze mosque) is on Venardou street, though it is surrounded by a very hefty scaffolding structure for a while. Used currently as a music school (odeon).
At the bottom of Arkadiou street (corner of Ougo str.), the Kara Musa Pasa mosque.
See also the uptown minaret, Veli Pasa mosque, under some refurbishment. Up from the post office, near corner of Markellou and Andoulidaki streets.
 

The Rimondi fountain, with the pleasing cafe "Galero" to sit at right next to it – which also has internet access, as many cafes do in the centre of Rethymno.

Souliou street – much jewellery and large selection of English titles at its bookshop. If one street is to be the single place for gathering all the gifts you need to complete your shopping tasks – this is it: gather herbs, cosmetics, books, a variety of jewellery, pottery and many other different items.
The shop Raw Materials, by the Avli restaurant owners. An amazing array of products and produce from Crete and all over Greece. A great place to buy things for people who like cooking, food and wines. At the back is the wine cellar - the dramatic and large wine tasting room sees wine-tastings in progress every Tuesday. There are more than 460 Greek wines (labels) in the shop.

Further down on Mesologgiou is the Apollon cinema which has fairly recent movies (if they are foreign language they are shown in the original language with Greek subtitles).
 

Laiki (open market) on Thursday mornings is beside the marina towards the beach. Or small laiki Saturday by Iroon Polytechniou square - just before the main bus station.

Carnival: every late February/early March strange and colourful outfits, floats decorated in brash, bright and sometimes controversial themes, hordes of people, together create the Rethymno carnival. Known as the biggest of its kind in Crete. This is set on a holiday known as "Apokries" (the Greek Halloween). The big carnival parade is the climax of the celebration and great fun for adults and kids alike.
(See Rethymno carnival photos in our photo album)
 

Outside Rethymno:
For really sublime views over Rethymno and surrounding areas, including dramatic sea vistas, head uphill following signs to Agia Irini. On the way, after a little over a kilometer and a half, stop at a church above you on the right – there is a driveway up to it, though the gate for cars is often locked you can still walk up, see the church and enjoy this magnificent viewpoint.
Continue on to Agia Irini monastery and a quiet, tranquil visit is there for you. Hours: 09.00-13.00 and 16.00-sunset daily. Ring bell only during those hours if you would like to visit. The Monastery (nunnery) is very recently restored. Restoration started in 1989. Its origin is 927 AD. The shop offers – with loom in view – their own hand made linens and woven pieces, jams, cards and hand-painted icons. The monastery is small and a place for a quiet visit.
 

Two of the major monasteries of Crete and amongst its most sought and visited, Arkadi and Preveli monastery are medium distance outings.
Other visits: Armeni minoan site, Argyroupoli (ancient Lappa) where the sound of water from springs cascades through this refreshing, taverna-laden village. Eleftherna, Axos, Zominthos archaeological sites. Amongst the significantly enjoyable, old and historic villages: Episkopi, Spili, Amari (valley), Monastiraki, Anogia.
On the south coast visit: Plakias, Rodakino, Schinaria, Preveli beach, Agia Galini, Agios Pavlos. Where inland leads out, the gorge of Prassano (from Prasses village), and where land leads inwards, the Melidoni and Sfendoni caves.
See the only sizable lake in Crete, Lake Kournas, with eating places along its edge, and cafes above from which to gaze at the view. Enjoy the lake itself in a paddle boat (at last, some fun for the kids!).

Extensive beaches stretch east of Rethymno itself - some with scattered large hotels alongside, or cafes or...just beach.

Where to eat & drink - Rethymno

The treat of treats for both food and visual flair - authentic natural Cretan grown ingredients and steel-tech-traditional meets cavern & Venetian rock: Avli restaurant. Few restaurants offer the choice of different styles and decor in one place. You will find it hard to choose whether to sit at a table in the large dining hall, beneath ancient arches, walls lined with wine bottles, wrought iron trim and creative decor - versus - another very cozy area of the restaurant with white linen covered tables. Part of the whole space is the "Enoteca" wine bar and in the centre of the building is a beautiful courtyard ("Avli" means courtyard), where you can dine in the summer. Main courses are all mouthwatering, so your own choice must rule. We have to recommend the strawberry soup with cinnamon ice cream for dessert!
Xanthoulidou 22 & Radamanthios 17. Tel. 28310-26213. Reservations recommended. Open year round. (see map) Price range: A+.

Thalassografia, by the fortezza.
Coffee, drinks, meze (appetizers), fresh salads, fish and seafood, greek cuisine - all mouth watering. A great location and super view. Splendid refresher. Open March/April to October.
Kefalogiannidon 33. Tel. 28310-52569 (see map) Price range: B/A+.

Quaint: taverna Gounas, Panou Koroneou 6, tel. 28310-28816. With live Cretan music most evenings. Price range: C/B.
Hari’s creperie, good and many varieties (nice interior too). Very near the Rimondi fountain, corner of Arabatzoglou and Mesologgiou. Price range: D/C.

Go into one of the cafes on edge of Iroon Polytechniou, the square in front of the prefecture building and the central police station…you can have a meze with an ouzo or a beer. It’s a little contrast with either being on the beach or some of the cafes more central or on the waterfront, where perhaps the music they are playing is not to your liking. And it’s a change of pace and style anyway, and you will return to your wandering around the highlights with a new blank canvas – refreshed!
Sit at the end cafe and you can glance at the sea anyway!
Along the seafront, the surprisingly varied faster foods at Goody's can be useful between greater feasts. A few doors along are a Chinese and a Mexican restaurant if this satisfies the need of the moment.

Nightclubs abound on Melissinou (where Fortezza hotel is and your likely first parking place in Rethymno is). Also Arkadiou street, near the museum shop, and down to the waterfront has several nightclubs ready to hit the groove.
 

In Koumbes area (west, outside the centre of Rethymno - 5 minutes by car):
Before a turn as you have passed most buildings on the way towards the National road from the Port and Fortress, staying on the sea road, passing the bus station, turn to the right.
Watch out for Petradi and Delfini hotels on your right where you will find Pastopoieion restaurant. Stone building, together with Delfini hotel, on the waterfront. Mediterranean cuisine, fish. Stamathioudaki 89, tel. 28310-21252. Price range: A+.

A little further, on your right, there is Tabakario taverna, which is on the seafront. It is good (outdoors) in summer on the water's edge or indoors in cooler weather. This stone building seems to stay warm naturally. Food is a standard menu and has always been of good quality over the last couple of years.
Tabakario taverna, Stamathioudaki 93 (Koumbes). Tel. 28310-29276. Price range: C/B.

About 50 m further (after Tabakario) is a small road leading down to the right. The places here afford great views across the sea to the fortress of Rethymno, offering good restaurants and charming cafes for a quieter (though these places can get busy) pace of being just outside central Rethymno.
Taverna food is most appetizing at Prima Plora.
Akrotiriou 2, tel. 28310-56990. Price range: C/A.

Go all the way to the end for the ultimate seafront cafe experience. This last cafe on your right, Maistros, has a water's edge garden which makes a cappuccino or a whisky sour all the more enjoyable. Their restaurant serves a wide variety of tasty dishes specializing in seafood. It is very good. Also, worth noting: after the last really warm summer sunshine has departed, the restaurant interior affords splendid floor-to-ceiling views and the drama of breathtaking waves crashing on the rocks just below. The night-time illumination of the sea, contrasting with a cozy fireplace is a real winter treat.
Open year round (closed on Mondays in the winter).
Akrotiriou 7, tel. 28310-25492. Price range: C/A.
 

Special Comments - Rethymno

By ferry you can travel overnight from Athens (Piraeus port) and arrive in the centre of Rethymno - well, you will only have a few hundred metres/yards to go to reach your centuries old building, your hotel in the historic old town. See ferry schedules.
 

Photo album - Rethymno

To see more of Rethymno, go to its photo album 1 and photo album 2.
 

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Simple map - Rethymno

We have drawn a map of Rethymno, to show you where the things we mention are located. See our overview Rethymno map and the enlarged Rethymno map (the latter is approx. 280 KB, slower loading).
 

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Rethymno's wonderful luck was to be left with both minarets and loggia - Venetian meets Ottoman and now it has the hotels hewn out of historic buildings to make it Crete's cultural big town on the beach.

The Venetian lighthouse NEW: click images to see larger version

View of Rethymno's fortress from the marina

Kara Musa Pasa mosque

House facádes

The Rimondi fountain

Palazzino di Corina hotel

Maistros cafe by the sea (Koumbes area)

• More photos, see:
Rethymno photo album 1
Rethymno photo album 2